Seems like All i've been hearing for the past 20 years is that vapor barriers are a MUST in wall situations. During our final walk through our builder told us that if we dry wall that we should TAKE DOWN the plastic so everything can "breathe". The inside wall then has a plastic sheet I will call a vapor barrier over the entire inside wall. Under the siding is your typical 1/2 inch sheathing covering the entire outside of the wall with your typical insulation between the studs on the inside. The back basement wall is not concrete but framed (2X4's) all the way down to the approx. Our home is 6 months old with a walk out basement. I asked this several months ago but the opinions were sparse so I thought i'd try it again hoping that maybe there will be some new thoughts. Hi All, hopefully i'm posting this in the correct area. After that I will drive in a bunch of these plaster washers into the seams on joists 1 and 4, mostly to support the old ceiling. Then the new 1/2" sheetrock will be put up using conventional drywall screws into joists 2 and 3, as well as the sistered support for joists 2 and 4.
After that I will slide in some insulation. Then I will put up strips of 1/2" across, may be every 18" or so. I will sister 2X4s or 2X3s onto joists 1 and 4. Joists 2 & 3 are fully exposed, joists 1 & 4 are half exposed and covered by the existing ceiling. The width is 48" with four joists exposed.
REPAIRING DRYWALL TAPE INSTALL
So I am thinking, would those large round perforated washers they use for plaster crack repair be applicable here? Can I install the new sheetrock next to the original sheetrock, then drive these big plaster washers down the seam to hold both sides up? I am talking about these things. I cannot drill new screws in to support them because they would be too close to the edge and would just crack the ceiling. So the ceiling on either sides of the hole is not being properly fastened anymore, since many of the original nails are either rusted from previous moisture penetration, or damaged by me during this demo. I felt so dumb after removing the whole mess, that the original ceiling was nailed into the bottom of the joist, and these nails most of them was on the line I scored with a diamond blade grinder.
REPAIRING DRYWALL TAPE FULL
(2) One mistake I made.was when I widened the hole in the ceiling for repairs, I was planning on a full width of 48".and I wasn't thinking clearly, so I measured, snapped and scored the line from CENTER of joist to CENTER of joist.
My question is whether this approach is better or I should go back to the two ply thick ceiling? I might have to shave a 1/8" off the 1X3 if it's too thick but that's not an issue. That would also allow me to easily put up three lengths of insulation into the ceiling bay while I have them open. I am thinking of installing strips of 48" long 1X3 furrings across the bottom of the joists to make up the needed thickness. (1) Since the original ceiling layer is slightly over an inch thick, and I don't really want to put in two layers of sheetrock due to too much weight. I widened the hole to a full 48", and going from wall to wall (about 10'). Now if that was not T&G but full plywood sheets, I think a bigger part of the roof deck would have been damaged.Īnyway, the joists are spaced 16" apart. The ceiling collapsed and made a mess below, and rain came in through the hole and flooded below, while we were away on higher grounds.Īfter the branch were removed, it's amazing it was such a small hole about the size of a fist. Recently with hurricane Irma, a giant 12" diameter tree branch fell from above, a smaller branch off that branch poked a hole through the tongue and groove roof deck, and poked a bigger hole through the ceiling.
Flat roof deck with 2X8 joists, then the ceiling is made of three ply - a layer of 1/2" gypsum nailed to the framing, then a coat of 3/8" cement stucco material, then a coat of very thin egg shell like plaster, then some orange peel like knock down, and finally 3 to 4 coats of paint. I have a building that was built in 1955.
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